Squamish Classic Rock Climbs: List of the Best Routes

TICK LIST OF SQUAMISH CLASSIC ROCK CLIMBS

Routes to the top of the Chief		Grade	Pitches	Location	Photo

	Squamish Butt/Face - The easiest route to the summit of the Chief. It takes a signifigant variation to the Squamish Buttress, wild and unique positioning above the South Gulley make this a memorable outing. Combine with Calculas and Memorial Cracks fo ther ultimate 14 pitch 5.9 ! Pioneered in 2010 by Sonnie Trotter and friends.	5.9	14	Apron - South Gully
	Ultimate Everything - This is, arguably, the easiest route to the summit of the Chief. It starts on the Apron, crosses the South Gully and then follows a myriad of slab, face and crack pitches to the top. It is popular and very pleasant.	5.10a	15	Apron - South Gully
	Squamish Buttress - This Fred Becky classic is most people's first climb to the summit of the Chief and starts on an Apron route. The Buttress has lots of moderate terrain and a final, short but steep 5.10 corner. The summit views are fantastic!	5.10c	12	Apron - Pan Wall
	Angel's Crest - This excellent and adventurous climb is a step up from the Squamish Buttress. There are four pitches of 5.10 and the route is longer.	5.10c	14	North Walls
	Grand Wall - A world-class climb and a Squamish icon. The rock is clean and the exposure exhilarating! A "don't-miss" for the grade.	5.11a	10	Grand Wall
	Millennium Falcon - A recent addition to the routes on the Chief and a good one at that. Lots of steep climbing up cracks, faces and arêtes.	5.11b	12	Dihedrals
	Freeway - Many pitches of 5.10 and steep 5.11 dihedrals capped by the spectacular "Diesel Overhang". Rivals the Grand Wall for stature.	5.11d	12	Tantalus Wall

Multi-pitch Routes

	Skywalker - This beautiful five pitch line feature incredibly varied climbing in a majestic setting beside the spectacular Shannon Falls.	5.7	5	Shannon Falls
	Banana Peel - A wonderful introduction to multi-pitch climbing. Many low-angle friction pitches that weave around the South Apron.	5.7	8	Apron
	Diedre - The next step up from Banana Peel climbs a long corner system on the Apron with lots of enjoyable laybacking. Incredibly popular!	5.7	6	Apron
	Merci Me - A fine compliment to Diedre takes two very exposed pitches up the Grand Wall. Tricky low-angle face climbing with a rappel descent.	5.8	2	Grand Wall Base
	Calculus Crack - This crackline hugs the north edge of the Apron and is characterized by a wide section down low and a finger crack up higher.	5.8	6	North Apron
	Star Check - This unique climb is located in the Cheakamus Canyon above the foaming river water. Approach by rappel and climb out in short pitches.	5.9	3	Cheakamus
	Charlotte's Web - A great companion route to Star Chek. Two interesting face pitches lead to great views of the Tantalus Range.	5.9	2	Cheakamus
	Snake - Like Diedre, but more technical. Follow thin corner cracks up the Apron with a few tricky 5.9 cruxes. A much sought after "tick"...	5.9	5	North Apron
	St Vitus' Dance - Follow wide hand and fist cracks up the North Apron. More strenuous than the other Apron routes but no less appealing.	5.9	6	North Apron
	Smoke Bluff Connection - An excellent four-pitch crack climb in the Smoke Bluffs. Varied pitches and a great short day objective.	5.10a	4	Smoke Bluff Wall
	Jungle Warfare - An interesting climb with a few tricky crack pitches. Steeper than the Apron and a more peaceful setting on the "Squaw".	5.10a	5	"Squaw"
	Rock On - An excellent, physical climb that follows steep corner cracks. High quality, physical corner climbing in a shaded gully.	5.10a	6	South Gully
	The Great Drain - One of the best additions to Squamish in the last decade. This route features wild steep crack climbing that is easier than it first appears.	5.10a	5	"Squaw"
	Peasant's Route - A classic outing with big ambience. Although primarily crack and corner climbing this route requires more finesse than brawn.	5.10b	6	Grand Wall Base
	Sunblessed - This face and crack route is definitely worth the hour-long approach. It is sunny, peaceful, scenic and the climbing is superb.	5.10b	3	Solarium
	Grand to Split Pillar - A shortened version of the Grand Wall can end at the top of the fabulous Split Pillar pitch. Remarkable climbing with a rappel descent.	5.10b	6	Grand Wall Base
	Birds of Prey - Rarely considered, this climb has some really excellent crack pitches and the setting is quiet and away from the masses.	5.10b	6	"Squaw"
	Blazing Saddles - A fine route in the secluded North Walls. The wild final pitch of steep crack climbing is one of the best of its grade.	5.10b	4	Sheriff's Badge
	Centrefold - Three completely different pitches characterize this climb. Crack, face and slab take you to a great view of Howe Sound.	5.10b	3	Papoose
	Borderline - A very popular objective. Featuring varied crack and face climbing, the offwidth roof is much easier than it appears. Continuing up Angels Crest makes the longest (17 pitches) 5.10 outting on the Chief.	5.10b	8	Sheriff's Badge

	Great Game - A step up from Birds of Prey or a great combination for a full day! Again, stellar crack climbing and a final overhanging pitch that is without comparison.	5.10d	4	"Squaw"
	Centrefold - Three completely different pitches characterize this climb. Crack, face and slab take you to a great view of Howe Sound.	5.10b	3	Papoose
	Hairpin - A great four pitch line is a good entracne to multi pitch 5.10. The bulletproof, glacier carved granite is some of the best stone in Squamish.	5.10a	4	Papoose
	Cruel Shoes - If technical slab intrigues you then you won't want to miss Cruel Shoes. Considered one of the best routes of this type in Squamish.	5.10d	6	Grand Wall Base
	Alaska Highway - Although graded lower than the Planet, the second pitch on this climb is probably harder for most. Steep, overhanging groove climbing will have you sweating on the second pitch. Spectacular.	5.11d	5	Zodiac Wall
	Daily Planet - One of the "hard" classics in Squamish follows a steep dihedral up the Sheriff's Badge. Very strenuous climbing.	5.12a	4	Sheriff's Badge

Single Pitch Routes

	Laughing Crack - A hidden finger-crack splitter in the Bluffs.	5.7	1	Smoke Bluff Wall
	Klahanie Crack - A 35m splitter hand-crack beside the roaring Shannon Falls.	5.7	1	Shannon Falls
	High Mountain Woody - A 50m pitch of pleasant crack climbing above the ocean.	5.8	1	Upper Malamute
	World's Toughest Milkman - Great overhanging face climbing on jugs.	5.8	1	Murrin Park
	Penny Lane - A splitter finger and hand crack. Great for learning technique.	5.9	1	Smoke Bluffs
	Neat and Cool - Overhanging face and crack climbing.	5.10a	1	Smoke Bluffs
	Seasoned in the Sun - Excellent hand jams and finger locks.	5.10a	1	Grand Wall Base
	Apron Strings - A superb layback crack that starts the Grand Wall route.	5.10b	1	Grand Wall Base
	Exasperator - A five-star, 50m single pitch finger crack.	5.10c	1	Grand Wall Base

TICK LIST OF SQUAMISH CLASSIC ROCK CLIMBS