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TICK LIST OF SQUAMISH CLASSIC ROCK CLIMBS

           
Routes to the top of the Chief
  Grade  
  Pitches  
  Location  
  Photo
           
[tick box] Squamish Butt/Face - The easiest route to the summit of the Chief. It takes a signifigant variation to the Squamish Buttress, wild and unique positioning above the South Gulley make this a memorable outing. Combine with Calculas and Memorial Cracks fo ther ultimate 14 pitch 5.9 ! Pioneered in 2010 by Sonnie Trotter and friends.

5.9
14
Apron -
South Gully
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[tick box] Ultimate Everything - This is, arguably, the easiest route to the summit of the Chief. It starts on the Apron, crosses the South Gully and then follows a myriad of slab, face and crack pitches to the top. It is popular and very pleasant.

5.10a
15
Apron -
South Gully
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[tick box] Squamish Buttress - This Fred Becky classic is most people's first climb to the summit of the Chief and starts on an Apron route. The Buttress has lots of moderate terrain and a final, short but steep 5.10 corner. The summit views are fantastic!

5.10c
12
Apron -
Pan Wall
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[tick box] Angel's Crest - This excellent and adventurous climb is a step up from the Squamish Buttress. There are four pitches of 5.10 and the route is longer.

5.10c
14
North
Walls
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[tick box] Grand Wall - A world-class climb and a Squamish icon. The rock is clean and the exposure exhilarating! A "don't-miss" for the grade.

5.11a
10
Grand
Wall
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[tick box] Millennium Falcon - A recent addition to the routes on the Chief and a good one at that. Lots of steep climbing up cracks, faces and arêtes.

5.11b
12
Dihedrals
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[tick box] Freeway - Many pitches of 5.10 and steep 5.11 dihedrals capped by the spectacular "Diesel Overhang". Rivals the Grand Wall for stature.
5.11d
12
Tantalus Wall
           
Multi-pitch Routes        
           
[tick box] Skywalker - This beautiful five pitch line feature incredibly varied climbing in a majestic setting beside the spectacular Shannon Falls.

5.7
5
Shannon Falls
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[tick box] Banana Peel  - A wonderful introduction to multi-pitch climbing. Many low-angle friction pitches that weave around the South Apron.

5.7
8
Apron
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[tick box] Diedre - The next step up from Banana Peel climbs a long corner system on the Apron with lots of enjoyable laybacking. Incredibly popular!

5.7
6
Apron
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Merci Me - A fine compliment to Diedre takes two very exposed pitches up the Grand Wall. Tricky low-angle face climbing with a rappel descent.

5.8
2
Grand Wall Base
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[tick box] Calculus Crack - This crackline hugs the north edge of the Apron and is characterized by a wide section down low and a finger crack up higher.

5.8
6
North Apron
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[tick box] Star Check  - This unique climb is located in the Cheakamus Canyon above the foaming river water. Approach by rappel and climb out in short pitches.

5.9
3
Cheakamus
 
Charlotte's Web - A great companion route to Star Chek. Two interesting face pitches lead to great views of the Tantalus Range.

5.9
2
Cheakamus
 
[tick box] Snake - Like Diedre, but more technical. Follow thin corner cracks up the Apron with a few tricky 5.9 cruxes. A much sought after "tick"...

5.9
5
North Apron
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[tick box] St Vitus' Dance - Follow wide hand and fist cracks up the North Apron. More strenuous than the other Apron routes but no less appealing.

5.9
6
North Apron
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[tick box] Smoke Bluff Connection - An excellent four-pitch crack climb in the Smoke Bluffs. Varied pitches and a great short day objective.

5.10a
4
Smoke Bluff Wall
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[tick box] Jungle Warfare  - An interesting climb with a few tricky crack pitches. Steeper than the Apron and a more peaceful setting on the "Squaw".

5.10a
5
"Squaw"
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[tick box] Rock On - An excellent, physical climb that follows steep corner cracks. High quality, physical corner climbing in a shaded gully.

5.10a
6
South Gully
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[tick box] The Great Drain - One of the best additions to Squamish in the last decade. This route features wild steep crack climbing that is easier than it first appears.

5.10a
5
"Squaw"
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[tick box] Peasant's Route - A classic outing with big ambience. Although primarily crack and corner climbing this route requires more finesse than brawn.

5.10b
6
Grand Wall Base
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[tick box] Sunblessed - This face and crack route is definitely worth the hour-long approach. It is sunny, peaceful, scenic and the climbing is superb.

5.10b
3
Solarium
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[tick box] Grand to Split Pillar - A shortened version of the Grand Wall can end at the top of the fabulous Split Pillar pitch. Remarkable climbing with a rappel descent.

5.10b
6
Grand Wall Base
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[tick box] Birds of Prey - Rarely considered, this climb has some really excellent crack pitches and the setting is quiet and away from the masses.

5.10b
6
"Squaw"
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Blazing Saddles - A fine route in the secluded North Walls. The wild final pitch of steep crack climbing is one of the best of its grade.

5.10b
4
Sheriff's
Badge
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[tick box] Centrefold - Three completely different pitches characterize this climb. Crack, face and slab take you to a great view of Howe Sound.

5.10b
3
Papoose
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Borderline - A very popular objective. Featuring varied crack and face climbing, the offwidth roof is much easier than it appears. Continuing up Angels Crest makes the longest (17 pitches) 5.10 outting on the Chief.

5.10b
8
Sheriff's
Badge
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[tick box] Great Game - A step up from Birds of Prey or a great combination for a full day! Again, stellar crack climbing and a final overhanging pitch that is without comparison.

5.10d
4
"Squaw"
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[tick box] Centrefold - Three completely different pitches characterize this climb. Crack, face and slab take you to a great view of Howe Sound.

5.10b
3
Papoose
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[tick box] Hairpin - A great four pitch line is a good entracne to multi pitch 5.10. The bulletproof, glacier carved granite is some of the best stone in Squamish.

5.10a
4
Papoose
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[tick box] Cruel Shoes - If technical slab intrigues you then you won't want to miss Cruel Shoes. Considered one of the best routes of this type in Squamish.

5.10d
6
Grand Wall Base
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[tick box] Alaska Highway - Although graded lower than the Planet, the second pitch on this climb is probably harder for most. Steep, overhanging groove climbing will have you sweating on the second pitch. Spectacular.

5.11d
5
Zodiac Wall
 
[tick box] Daily Planet - One of the "hard" classics in Squamish follows a steep dihedral up the Sheriff's Badge. Very strenuous climbing.
5.12a
4
Sheriff's
Badge
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Single Pitch Routes        
           
[tick box] Laughing Crack - A hidden finger-crack splitter in the Bluffs.

5.7
1
Smoke Bluff Wall
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[tick box] Klahanie Crack - A 35m splitter hand-crack beside the roaring Shannon Falls.

5.7
1
Shannon Falls
 
[tick box] High Mountain Woody - A 50m pitch of pleasant crack climbing above the ocean.

5.8
1
Upper Malamute
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[tick box] World's Toughest Milkman - Great overhanging face climbing on jugs.

5.8
1
Murrin Park
 
[tick box] Penny Lane - A splitter finger and hand crack. Great for learning technique.

5.9
1
Smoke Bluffs
 
[tick box] Neat and Cool - Overhanging face and crack climbing.

5.10a
1
Smoke Bluffs
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[tick box] Seasoned in the Sun - Excellent hand jams and finger locks.

5.10a
1
Grand Wall Base
 
[tick box] Apron Strings - A superb layback crack that starts the Grand Wall route.

5.10b
1
Grand Wall Base
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[tick box] Exasperator - A five-star, 50m single pitch finger crack.

5.10c
1
Grand Wall Base
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